DLP Printing pt. 3: The Frame

Now I am beginning to design the frame. The first version will be made of 20mm x 20mm aluminum T-Slot extrusion, also commonly referred to as "80-20". This material is ideal for frames and prototypes since it allows anything to be mounted along the frame, and makes it easy to move components around. In addition, it is fairly inexpensive and much more robust than threaded rod. 80-20 has been used in many RepRap printers and has proved to simplify the build, decrease build time, provide more freedom to modify, and is incredibly sturdy. AlephObjects, maker of the LulzBot AO-101 has tested their printer while standing on it, driving it off road, and making it print upside down.

 

(the profile of a 20mm x 20mm aluminum extrusion. source: eBay)

My main goal is to use as little material as possible to reduce cost and simplify building the printer. It's worth investing in a m5x0.8 mm tap to add tapped holes to the end of your extrusions. McMaster Carr sells both the extrusions and various connectors. It is worth buying the extrusion on their website, but a corner block sells for $10 each! This quickly adds up. Luckily, there's thingiverse! Printing a corner block on my RepRap prusa with 0.35mm layer height took roughly 20 minutes and cost about $0.16! 

Here are some excellent extrusion components:

Corner Block -- These work incredibly well and are ~60x cheaper than the aluminum ones for sale!

90 Degree Corner Backet -- These also work very well, although the overhang is tricky. Blowing on it worked until I got light headed.

In addition, I will be uploading all parts I make onto Thingiverse. Follow me, and make sure to print a Toothbrush holder.